This post will cover the US Army Entrenching Tool or e-tool. The e-tool is one of those pieces of gear that you don’t know you need, until you really need it. I think every outdoor enthusiast should have one. I am not advocating carrying it with you on every trip, but if you are “car camping” as opposed to primitive camping, then throw one of these e-tools in your trunk. If I plan on making a new campsite, I take the e-tool with me. If I visit an old campsite for the first time in the season, I take the e-tool with me to clear out new growth, and remove old ashes from the fire pit.

Entrenching tools come from many different manufacturers and from different decades. You can find an older type, with a wood handle, or the most common I see today, is the tri-fold metal handle. There are many cheap fakes from Asia, and many decent “replicas” as well. There is an excellent guide on eBay “U.S. Entrenching Tool Identification — Spot a Fake!“. According to this reviewer, my newest e-tool may be a fake. While comparing it to my old e-tool, I cannot tell any physical differences, except for stamped markings. Overall design, weight and “feel” are the same. There are several types of entrenching tool carriers; the newest type is a MOLLE pouch with buckle closure in the front. I use old-school rubber ALICE carriers with snap-ons to secure the lid. In my situation it makes no sense to pay more for the MOLLE carrier, but a soldier, who may have to hit the ground hard, the snap-on ALICE pouch can come open easier than the MOLLE carrier with buckle closure.

I have used the e-tool in the field as a shovel and a spade. I think for chopping branches, a machete or hatchet are best. The e-tools weakest points are it’s hinged parts, and chopping violently stresses them much more than digging. Size of the blade is good for camp chores like digging a fire pit, or getting rocks out from underneath the tent. One could use the e-tool as a weapon in some situations, it certainly has the weight and the edge to damage flesh and bone.

A few words about using the entrenching tool… There are several hinges, and one plastic nut on the last hinge. Twist this nut counter-clockwise to allow the hinges to work. Once this is done, unfold the e-tool into desired position, shovel, pick, or closed. Twist the nut clockwise till it stops. This will lock all the hinges, and you can use your e-tool.

Overall length 7″
Folded length
4.25″
Weight untested
Steel material stainless
Blade length 2.25″
Lock Mechanism
none

This multitool came as a part of Winchester 6 piece gift set from Wal Mart. For $10 for the whole set, I could not pass it up. The craftsmanship and materials do not feel as good as my Gerber and Leatherman multitools, and that’s ok. I beleive that tools should be used and abused, and for the price the Winchester can be beat up without breaking the bank.

It is made from stainless steel, and blades feel sharp enough to do small tasks. There are inch and centimeter markings etched into both sides of the handles, to measure something shorter than 8″. On one side there is a standard blade, a saw blade, can/bottle opener and a flat screwdriver bit. On the other side there is a nice serrated blade, a short blade, and a phillips screw driver bit. All the blades swing out when handles are fully closed, and pliers are not exposed. If you swing the handles open, the multitool becomes needle nosed pliers. This design is comfortable because the inside of the handles are smooth, and edges do not cut into your skin.

Winchester Multitool pouch Winchester Multitool Winchester Multitool blade Winchester Multitool pliers

While not strictly camping or survival gear, the Smith’s Sharpening System is very useful to have around the house. I have tried several types of sharpening rods, Arkansas stone of different grits, and none worked well for me. I am pretty sure it is because I cannot hold a proper angle while sharpening the blade. The Smith’s system comes with a clamping tool to hold the knife blade in place, and two plastic guides with different angles for the stones. There are two preset angles, around 20° and 25°. The 20° angle is used for everyday kitchen knives, and thinner blades. The 25° angle is for tools that are for less delicate work, and bear more force. Something like a thick bush knife, a machete or an axe. The guides ensure a consistent angle across the entire blade edge, and different stones allow for easy sharpening. There is a coarse surface for getting old or rough edges into shape, then the fine surface to finish up. There is even a triangular bar for cerated blades. The kit comes with a bottle of honing oil, and a nice case to keep everything together. I have inserted an old sharpening stone into the extra loop in my kit. Current version may come in a plastic or fabric case, and with regular or diamond stones. Replacement stones are available from Smith Abrasives Inc as well.

This system was purchased at Lowe’s about a year ago, and I use it on our kitchen knives every one or two months. Once the proper angle was set with the coarse stone, I only have to use the fine stone to maintain the edge. There are several different sharpening systems out there, and anything that will allow you to keep a consistent angle is much better than a regular stone. If you have good expensive knives, but do not understand why they do not work well, or dull quickly, it is probably because the edge is rounded instead of flat.

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Smith’s sharpening sytem Smith’s sharpening sytem open Smith’s kit close up Smith’s sharpening clamp
Gerber Gator
Overall length 8.75″
Folded length
4.875″
Weight 2.3 oz
Steel material 400 series stainless
Blade length 3.75″
Lock Mechanism
Lock back

This is the standard folder I carry in my belt BOB. It stays there, and comes out when cooking on all the camping trips. I have had this knife for about 10 years, and still love it. Knife enthusiasts have said that old-school Gerber steel is much better than the new stuff. I don’t know, and will not argue with them. The steel of this knife is good. It is stainless steel of some sort, sharpens easy, and holds the edge well enough. A few years back on one of my camping trips I thought I lost this knife, and replaced it with a Gerber AR 3.00 from Wal Mart. Then, after about 3 months, while cleaning my car, I found the Gator. Hooray! Both knives have their strengths and weaknesses, and the Gator would come out on top, in my opinion.  The clip-point blade seems to be better in old-school Gerber knives like this one. The Gator has a lock-back mechanism, and a “handle made of a hard inner core of glass filled polypropylene, with Santoprene rubber molded and chemically bonded around it.” The grip is exceptional, even when hands are wet. This knife requires both hands for operation. I have tried flicking it open numerous times, and it just will not happen.

Gerber AR 3.00 open
Overall length 7.13″”
Folded length
4.1″
Weight 2.8 oz
Steel material 440A stainless
Blade length 3.00″
Lock Mechanism
Liner lock

I purchased the Gerber AR 3.00 folder after a camping trip to Red River Gorge, when I thought I lost my Gerber Gator. I later found the Gator, but the AR 3.00 stayed with me because I like the pocket clip for every day carry. The blade action is incredibly smooth, and it has a satisfying “click” when locked into place. This is thanks to two Teflon washers on either side of the blade. Opening it with one hand is a breeze for me, thanks to the two thumb-studs. I have seen knives with better studs; some were simply larger, some had checkering to increase friction. I got the black non-reflective blade version from Wal Mart for about $30. The handle is not as comfortable as the Gerber Gator, but fits my hand well enough. I have used this knife on more than one occasion at work to cut fruit, bread, and meats, and it has retained the edge very well. Some purists may say that Gerber knives are not what they used to be, but for the price, AR 3.00 is a good purchase.  This model sports a drop-point blade without serrations.

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