Buck Omni Hunter review
Overall length 9.75″
Weight 7.8 oz
Steel material 420HC stainless
Blade length 4″
Accessory
Nylon sheath

I have gained experience after several trips to the woods, that would not have come any other way.  One of the most used tools is a camp knife.  In the beginning, I thought bigger is better, and started with a Cold Steel GI Tanto.  At first it seemed to make perfect sense: large heavy blade for camp chores, paracord wrapped handle in case it needs to become a spear head, inexpensive, to take abuse, etc.  All these ‘features’ turned out to be useless: large blade is a pain to carry, handle is uncomfortable, cheap steel dull easy, and it looks scary, when you run into other people on the trail.  So… the GI Tanto has been replace with a Buck Omni Hunter 12pt with gut hook.

The Omni Hunter has a large curved handle, made of black Kraton.  It is textured for good grip, and is not slippery even with blood on it.  There are ridges on the top and bottom of the handle to increase traction in all conditions.  A lanyard hole is in the back, you can easily feed 550 cord through it for extra lashing.  This handle is large, even someone with large hands should find it comfortable.  If you have smaller hands, the curve of the handle makes it easy to use in every situation.  It is a full tang knife, as you can through the lanyard hole.

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CRKT Vertex drop point
Overall length 7.25″
Folded length
4.0″
Weight 3.8 oz
Steel material 8Cr14MoV stainless
Blade length 3.125″
Lock Mechanism
Locking liner

Update 5/31/2011: Just after a few weeks of use the pocket clip has lost most of it’s spring.  I had to use pliers to compress it again, so that the knife would not fall out of my pocket.  This really undermines my good overall opinion about the blade.

After a few years, the time has come to replace the Gerber AR 3.0 with something better.  Specifically, a better blade.  Numerous times I have sharpened my EDC knife, and wished I did not have to do it so often.  The carbon blade sharpens easily, but also dulls easily.

The new CRKT Vertex has a stainless steel blade, similar to AUS-8 steel.  It’s a Chinese steels that gets mostly positive reviews on various internet forums and other sites.  The blade is spring-loaded for one handed operation.  Depress the locking stud and nudge the blade forward, and it springs and locks into place.  Liner lock secures it into place for sure-handed operation.  This blade is extreme hollow ground for smooth penetration into whatever you are cutting.  The drop point version has black Micarta inserts, and the clip point sports cocobolo wood inserts.

AK-47 bayonet
Length w. Sheath
13.25″
Knife length
10.75″
Weight 2.8 oz
Steel material Carbon Steel
Blade length 5.75″
Accessory
Wire cutter

If you are looking for a cheap knife to throw in your BOB and forget about it, the East German AK-47 Bayonet is a reasonably good solution.  It’s large, it has a built-in wire cutter and a saw.  I realize that the saw is pretty useless, but it’s there nonetheless.  Because this knife was designed to be attached to the AK-47 rife, its handle has a channel and a ring to go around the barrel.  These features are completely useless and inconvenient for anyone not using it with the AK-47 rifle.

The steel is pretty soft and easy to sharpen.  I gave it a brand new 20 degree edge after about half an hour of work with the Smith’s sharpening system.  It’s not as sharp as some of my other knives with better steel, but it will do; especially sitting around inside the BOB, not seeing daily use.  I am sure it will dull easily after chopping branches or digging in the dirt.  But hey, the bayonet was designed for stabbing, not so much for camp chores.

The built-in wire cutters are adequate.  I cut through a 1/8″ nail with a bit of difficulty, after a few smacks of the fist on the knife handle laying on the floor.  If you are planning to cut through a lot of wire, get a dedicated tool – this knife is a pain and kind of dangerous.  The handle is made from bakelite, and seems durable.  The knife would feel a lot more comfortable in the hand with a better designed handle.

After reading this, you may think this is a sub-par knife that does not excel in anything.  This is partially true, and for $50 you can get a great Ka-bar or a Buck Nighthawk.  However, for $15-20, this is a good tool to throw in your bag, and forget about it.

Image quality is not the best today, as I am using and older camera.

One of the tools for making a semi-permanent shelter in the woods is often overlooked.  The tool I am talking about is a saw.  This can be a pruning saw, a folding saw, or anything in between.  Many people try to use a machete, or a hatchet, or even a camp axe to chop wood.  While this works, a small saw is much lighter, and safer to use.  I have used a Fiskars folding pruning saw to cut branches, and it’s worked out great.

Recently, I purchased a small Stanley keyhole saw for a project, and it would serve very well in my BOB too.  There are two blades, a fine metal cutting blade, and an all purpose wood/plastic blade.  The handle is very light and small.  Blades can be attached in two positions to accommodate different cutting angles.  The handle plus two blades is much smaller and lighter than any pruning saw.  There are many varieties of hole saws from different manufacturers, and I found that this Stanley model is smallest and lightest of all.  AAA battery is in the picture for size comparison.  Check out the pictures below…

Stanley Keyhole Saw

Stanley Keyhole Saw

Saw Blades

Saw Blades

This post will cover the US Army Entrenching Tool or e-tool. The e-tool is one of those pieces of gear that you don’t know you need, until you really need it. I think every outdoor enthusiast should have one. I am not advocating carrying it with you on every trip, but if you are “car camping” as opposed to primitive camping, then throw one of these e-tools in your trunk. If I plan on making a new campsite, I take the e-tool with me. If I visit an old campsite for the first time in the season, I take the e-tool with me to clear out new growth, and remove old ashes from the fire pit.

Entrenching tools come from many different manufacturers and from different decades. You can find an older type, with a wood handle, or the most common I see today, is the tri-fold metal handle. There are many cheap fakes from Asia, and many decent “replicas” as well. There is an excellent guide on eBay “U.S. Entrenching Tool Identification — Spot a Fake!“. According to this reviewer, my newest e-tool may be a fake. While comparing it to my old e-tool, I cannot tell any physical differences, except for stamped markings. Overall design, weight and “feel” are the same. There are several types of entrenching tool carriers; the newest type is a MOLLE pouch with buckle closure in the front. I use old-school rubber ALICE carriers with snap-ons to secure the lid. In my situation it makes no sense to pay more for the MOLLE carrier, but a soldier, who may have to hit the ground hard, the snap-on ALICE pouch can come open easier than the MOLLE carrier with buckle closure.

I have used the e-tool in the field as a shovel and a spade. I think for chopping branches, a machete or hatchet are best. The e-tools weakest points are it’s hinged parts, and chopping violently stresses them much more than digging. Size of the blade is good for camp chores like digging a fire pit, or getting rocks out from underneath the tent. One could use the e-tool as a weapon in some situations, it certainly has the weight and the edge to damage flesh and bone.

A few words about using the entrenching tool… There are several hinges, and one plastic nut on the last hinge. Twist this nut counter-clockwise to allow the hinges to work. Once this is done, unfold the e-tool into desired position, shovel, pick, or closed. Twist the nut clockwise till it stops. This will lock all the hinges, and you can use your e-tool.

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