I saved these links a while ago from “Old Town Coleman Center”, and they no longer online.   Maybe be affiliated with http://www.pressure-lanterns-il.com/tech-n-info/.  Anyway, links are on this site but manuals are not written by me.  I will not be held responsible for any personal, property or any damage caused by reading and following advice in the articles below.  Use common sense when working with flammable fuel.

General operation:

http://www.campingsurvivalgearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/check valve removal.pdf
http://www.campingsurvivalgearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/coleman theory of operation.pdf

Gas stoves – cleaning, assembly and disassembly:

http://www.campingsurvivalgearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/stove-dissasembly.pdf
http://www.campingsurvivalgearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/stove-reassembly.pdf
http://www.campingsurvivalgearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/stove-cleaning.pdf

Gas lanterns – cleaning, assembly and disassembly:

http://www.campingsurvivalgearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/doublemantle cleaning.pdf
http://www.campingsurvivalgearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/doublemantle dissasembly.pdf
http://www.campingsurvivalgearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/doublemantle reassembly.pdf

http://www.campingsurvivalgearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/singlemantle cleaning.pdf
http://www.campingsurvivalgearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/singlemantle dissasembly.pdf
http://www.campingsurvivalgearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/singlemantle reassembly.pdf

Troubleshooting  – valve and plunger repair, weak flame and pulsing

http://www.campingsurvivalgearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/trouble – lantern burns dim.pdf
http://www.campingsurvivalgearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/trouble – lanterns burns yellow.pdf
http://www.campingsurvivalgearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/trouble – lantern pulses.pdf
http://www.campingsurvivalgearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/trouble – leaking fuel near valve.pdf
http://www.campingsurvivalgearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/trouble – loss of pressure.pdf
http://www.campingsurvivalgearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/trouble – nothing happens quarter turn.pdf
http://www.campingsurvivalgearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/trouble – only air comes out.pdf
http://www.campingsurvivalgearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/trouble – plunger stem rises.pdf
http://www.campingsurvivalgearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/trouble – pump plunger no resistance.pdf
http://www.campingsurvivalgearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/trouble – stove catches fire.pdf
http://www.campingsurvivalgearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/trouble – stove flame weak.pdf

One of the tools for making a semi-permanent shelter in the woods is often overlooked.  The tool I am talking about is a saw.  This can be a pruning saw, a folding saw, or anything in between.  Many people try to use a machete, or a hatchet, or even a camp axe to chop wood.  While this works, a small saw is much lighter, and safer to use.  I have used a Fiskars folding pruning saw to cut branches, and it’s worked out great.

Recently, I purchased a small Stanley keyhole saw for a project, and it would serve very well in my BOB too.  There are two blades, a fine metal cutting blade, and an all purpose wood/plastic blade.  The handle is very light and small.  Blades can be attached in two positions to accommodate different cutting angles.  The handle plus two blades is much smaller and lighter than any pruning saw.  There are many varieties of hole saws from different manufacturers, and I found that this Stanley model is smallest and lightest of all.  AAA battery is in the picture for size comparison.  Check out the pictures below…

Stanley Keyhole Saw

Saw Blades

Pictures are here, full review coming soon…

IPK in vacuum sealed pouch	IPK in vinyl poch
British Individual Protection Kit	British IPK stakes and rope

Long Range Bugout bag is created by Sandpiper of California (PiperGear.com). They make various sports bags as well as travel packs, and “bugout bags”. I snagged a used Long Range Bag on eBay last week for testing and reviewing purposes.

This bag is huge, no wonder they call it the Long Range bag. Like most suitcases, there is a zipper in the back that compresses additional 3.5″ of fabric, which adds 1116 cu/in to the main compartment. Unexpanded this pack is around 4400 cubic inches. Expanded it is around 5550 cubic inches. Because of its ’square’ design, and expandable feature, the Long Range bag reminds me of a travel suitcase. In fact there are two carry handles, and a zippered back compartment to put away the shoulder straps. This can be handy if you fly with this pack, or travel via public transportation. Material is 1000-Denier Cordura, ACU color pattern. Stitching seems pretty good, however the metal carabiner attachments at the end of shoulder straps seem flimsy for the kind of weight you can carry in this pack. The bottom attachment points for the shoulder straps could use reinforcing.

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This post will cover the US Army Entrenching Tool or e-tool. The e-tool is one of those pieces of gear that you don’t know you need, until you really need it. I think every outdoor enthusiast should have one. I am not advocating carrying it with you on every trip, but if you are “car camping” as opposed to primitive camping, then throw one of these e-tools in your trunk. If I plan on making a new campsite, I take the e-tool with me. If I visit an old campsite for the first time in the season, I take the e-tool with me to clear out new growth, and remove old ashes from the fire pit.

Entrenching tools come from many different manufacturers and from different decades. You can find an older type, with a wood handle, or the most common I see today, is the tri-fold metal handle. There are many cheap fakes from Asia, and many decent “replicas” as well. There is an excellent guide on eBay “U.S. Entrenching Tool Identification — Spot a Fake!“. According to this reviewer, my newest e-tool may be a fake. While comparing it to my old e-tool, I cannot tell any physical differences, except for stamped markings. Overall design, weight and “feel” are the same. There are several types of entrenching tool carriers; the newest type is a MOLLE pouch with buckle closure in the front. I use old-school rubber ALICE carriers with snap-ons to secure the lid. In my situation it makes no sense to pay more for the MOLLE carrier, but a soldier, who may have to hit the ground hard, the snap-on ALICE pouch can come open easier than the MOLLE carrier with buckle closure.

I have used the e-tool in the field as a shovel and a spade. I think for chopping branches, a machete or hatchet are best. The e-tools weakest points are it’s hinged parts, and chopping violently stresses them much more than digging. Size of the blade is good for camp chores like digging a fire pit, or getting rocks out from underneath the tent. One could use the e-tool as a weapon in some situations, it certainly has the weight and the edge to damage flesh and bone.

A few words about using the entrenching tool… There are several hinges, and one plastic nut on the last hinge. Twist this nut counter-clockwise to allow the hinges to work. Once this is done, unfold the e-tool into desired position, shovel, pick, or closed. Twist the nut clockwise till it stops. This will lock all the hinges, and you can use your e-tool.

For review today I have a MOLLE Sustainment Pouch. These are designed to attach to the sides of the Main MOLLE Pack to carry the “sustainment load – MREs”. I imagine they can be used for anything, from carrying clothes to food to bottles of water.

My pouches are made by SDS, and have waterproof coating on the inside. There is a draw-string closure on top, and a flap with buckle for added security. For real-world sizing, I stuffed a Medium/Regular set of BDU pants and shirt, and a Fleece inside. It is about the right fit for the three items; I can probably fit a pair or two of socks inside, if all the clothes are rolled and compressed really tight.

The pouch measures about 12″ tall x 8″ wide x 6″ deep, which makes it around 570 cubic inches in size. Fabric is usual SDS cordura with good stitching and waterproofing. I have yet to be disappointed by SDS quality of materials and craftsmanship. Personally, I have to use for the Sustainment Pouches at this time, they are too big to fit on the sides of my MOLLE Assault Pack, and would add too much space to my regular UTG Web pack. If you are have a MOLLE vest, a couple of these could probably be used instead of a rucksack altogether.  There are four MOLLE attachment straps on the back, so two rows of webbing on the main pack will be used for each attachment point.  Because of the size of these pouches, and the kind of weight they can carry, I would secure the MOLLE straps with either duct tape of a zip-tie near the end.

Another good MOLLE accessory from CheaperThanDirt.com is the Medical Bag. Originally designed for combat medics this bag contains more First Aid and surgery items than the Individual Soldier’s first aid kit. There are several variations of this design: three, four and five compartment models. The bag from CTD has 3 compartments, and it can be used as intended or as a small BOB, or a small stuff bag for day hikes. There are 2 MOLLE attachment straps on the back, so it can be secured to anything with PALS webbing. I am pleasantly surprised to find the inside is vulcanized to make the whole bag waterproof, and overall construction is pretty solid. One thing I do not like about CTD MOLLE gear it is somewhat cheaper quality than current US Army issue stuff. SDS makes a lot of Army packs, and they use YKK zippers, which are a big plus in my book. I imagine that most of the bags and pouches at CTD are imported, and do not have the same quality control as US made products.

This bag measures 11″ wide x 12″ tall x 4″ deep. There is an adjustable and removable shoulder strap, and two MOLLE straps. I do wish there were three or four straps to hold it in place securely. I have attached it to one of my backpacks, and if the pack was dropped or thrown around, the medical bag may come off. There is also a carry handle on top, and a quick-release buckle to keep all the compartments together.

Here is a list of contents of the Army issue M-3 Medical Bag (may be outdated):
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I am not a “flashlighaholic” like the guys at Candlepowerforums.com, however flashlights have always been cool toys for me. Ever since the Inova X5 purchase, I have been hooked on LED lights. They are far better for every day chores than an incandescent light. For the BOB, I purchased an Inova X1 single LED, single AA battery flashlight. Like all Inova products, it is well built, and functions perfectly. What I like most is X1 runs on only one AA battery. No need for exotic power sources, and cost of replacing too many batteries at once.  There is one 5mm LED and a reflector protected by a clear lens.

Like most Inova X-family flashlights there is a twist cap on the end, with a monentary push button switch. There is a rubber o-ring seal to protect the insides from moisture. This o-ring should be lubricated with silicone grease to keep it from cracking and maintain a good seal. Unlike the X5, this light did not come with a belt pouch; there is a drilled hole on the tail-cap to insert a carry strap or a key-chain ring. After about 8 hours, the flashlight is close to 50% light output; it will go for many more hours after that with diminishing results. The beam has a bluish tint, brighter in the center. Flashlight body is made from aluminum, and the momentary on/off switch is rubber. These cost about $20 on the internet and several local retailers like Target.

The FM 21-76 is considered to be one of the ’standard’ survival publications available today. The other ones are Boyscout Handbook, SAS Survival Guide and such. If you are not familiar with US Army’s publishing scheme, I can try and explain it in a few words, based on my own understanding. FM stands for Field Manual; the numbers that follow are for various tasks, skills, and equipment maintenance that may be of use in the field. I beleive the Army uses this system (FM, followed by a series of numbers) for all their field publications. If you do a search on Amazon.com for any of the titles mentioned above, there are plenty of sellers, and links to similar publications. While searching for good survival publications, I found several reviews stating that the Boyscout Handbooks have been revised over the years, and the 1950’s and ‘60 publications are the best.

I like this book because it is compact, and can be put in any backpack or rucksack pocket with ease. There are several concepts covered in the manual. This is not a chapter-by-chapter listing, merely a general summary:

• Survival Kits
• Basic Survival Medicine
• Shelter
• Water
• Firecraft
• Food Procurement
• Edible, Medicinal and Poisonous plants

My copy was published in 1970, so it is outdated by modern military standards. The most current revision has several additional chapters:

• Movement in Hostile Areas
• Camouflage
• Contact with People
• Survival in Man-made Hazards

This is not a bad book to have, just in case you get lost in the woods. At worst, if you are bored one day, and have nothing to do at the campsite, this will make for an educational reading. And everyone could always use a good book every once in a while.

LINK to zipped PDF files of Scanned FM-76, and LINK to a much smaller PDF text version.

This multitool came as a part of Winchester 6 piece gift set from Wal Mart. For $10 for the whole set, I could not pass it up. The craftsmanship and materials do not feel as good as my Gerber and Leatherman multitools, and that’s ok. I beleive that tools should be used and abused, and for the price the Winchester can be beat up without breaking the bank.

It is made from stainless steel, and blades feel sharp enough to do small tasks. There are inch and centimeter markings etched into both sides of the handles, to measure something shorter than 8″. On one side there is a standard blade, a saw blade, can/bottle opener and a flat screwdriver bit. On the other side there is a nice serrated blade, a short blade, and a phillips screw driver bit. All the blades swing out when handles are fully closed, and pliers are not exposed. If you swing the handles open, the multitool becomes needle nosed pliers. This design is comfortable because the inside of the handles are smooth, and edges do not cut into your skin.